f his
cruelty, and do not believe that he was by any means of a savage
disposition, nor that his troops rivalled in any way the horrors
committed in Algeria by the civilized and fraternising French. He was a
bold, determined soldier. He had that reverence and respect for his
father which is so much to be admired in the patriarchal customs of the
East; and it is not every one who has lived for years in the enjoyment
of absolute power uncontrolled by the admonitions of a Christian's
conscience that could get out of the scrape so well, or leave a better
name upon the page of history than that of Ibrahim Pasha.

After the fearful catastrophe in the church of the Holy Sepulchre, the
whole host of pilgrims seem to have become panic struck, and every one
was anxious to escape front the city. There was a report, too, that the
plague had broken out, and we with the rest made instant preparation for
our departure. In consequence of the numbers who had perished, there
was no difficulty in hiring baggage-horses; and we immediately procured
as many as we wanted: tents were loaded on some; beds and packages of
all sorts and sizes were tied on others, with but slight regard to
balance and compactness; and on the afternoon of the 6th of May we
rejoiced to find ourselves once more out of the walls of Jerusalem, and
riding at our leisure along the pleasant fields fresh with the flowers
of spring, a season charming in all countries, but especially delightful
in the sultry climate of the Holy Land.

MONASTERIES OF THE LEVANT.

PART III.

THE MONASTERIES OF METEORA.

[Illustration: VIEW OF THE MONASTERY OF SAINT BARLAAM, AT METEORA].

CHAPTER XVII.

Albania--Ignorance at Corfu concerning that Country--Its reported
abundance of Game and Robbers--The Disturbed State of the
Country--The Albanians--Richness of their Arms--Their free use of
them--Comparative Safety of Foreigners--Tragic Fate of a German
Botanist--Arrival at Gominitza--Ride to Paramathia--A Night's
Bivouac--Reception at Paramathia--Albanian Ladies--Yanina--Albanian
Mode of settling a Quarrel--Expected Attack from Robbers--A
Body-Guard mounted--Audience with the Vizir--His Views of Criminal
Jurisprudence--Retinue of the Vizir--His Troops--Adoption of the
European Exercises--Expedition to Berat--Calmness and
Self-possession of the Turks--Active Preparations for
Warfare--Scene at the Bazaar--Valiant P