gons and genii are dimly seen in
the background.

[Illustration: RUSSIAN THEATRE.]

Attracted by sounds of applause at one of these theatres, I edged my
way through the crowd, and succeeded, after many apologies, in
securing a favorable position. Amid a motley gathering of Russians,
Poles, Germans, and French--for here all nations and classes are
represented--my ears were stunned by the clapping of hands and
vociferous cries _Bis! Bis!_ The curtain was down, but in answer to
the call for a repetition of the last scene it soon rose again, and
afforded me an opportunity of witnessing a characteristic performance.
A wild Mujik has the impudence to make love to the maid-servant of
his master, who appears to be rather a crusty old gentleman, not
disposed to favor matrimonial alliances of that kind. Love gets the
better of the lover's discretion, and he is surprised in the kitchen.
The bull-dog is let loose upon him; master and mistress and
subordinate members of the family rush after him, armed with
saucepans, tongs, shovels, and broomsticks. The affrighted Mujik runs
all round the stage bellowing fearfully; the bull-dog seizes him by
the nether extremities and hangs on with the tenacity of a vice. Round
and round they run, Mujik roaring for help, bull-dog swinging out
horizontally. The audience applauds; the master flings down his
broomstick and seizes the dog by the tail; the old woman seizes master
by the skirts of his coat; and all three are dragged around the stage
at a terrific rate, while the younger members of the family shower
down miscellaneous blows with their sticks and cudgels, which always
happen to fall on the old people, to the great satisfaction of the
audience. Shouts, and shrieks, and clapping of hands but faintly
express the popular appreciation of the joke. Finally the faithful
maid, taking advantage of the confusion, flings a bunch of
fire-crackers at her oppressors and blows them up, and the Mujik,
relieved of their weight, makes a brilliant dash through the door,
carrying with him the tenacious bull-dog, which it is reasonable to
suppose he subsequently takes to market and sells for a good price.
The curtain falls, the music strikes up, and the whole performance is
greeted with the most enthusiastic applause. Such are the
entertainments that delight these humorous people--a little broad to
be sure, but not deficient in grotesque spirit.

From the theatre I wandered to the pavilion of Zingalee gi