ill three hours? In my turn I now asked advice, and again there
was a chorus of "Go see the Caldron; that's the only sight to be seen in
this part of the country." "And where is this Caldron?" On the mountain,
to the right, half way up; but the path was a little complicated, and I
was advised to take a guide; and there, over there in that white cottage
with green blinds, I would find the best guide there was about here, an
honest man--Old Simon.

So I went and knocked at the door of the little house.

An old woman opened it.

"Simon, the guide?"

"Yes, right here; but--if it's to go to the Caldron--"

"It is to go to the Caldron."

"Well, Simon hasn't been very well since morning; he hasn't much
strength, and he can't go out. But don't worry yourself; there is some
one who can replace him--there is Blacky."

"All right, let it be Blacky, then."

"Only I must tell you that Blacky isn't a person."

"Not a person?"

"No, he's our dog."

"A dog? What do you mean?"

"Yes, Blacky; and he will guide you very well--quite as well as my
husband. He is in the habit of--"

"In the habit?"

"Certainly; for years and years Simon took him along, so he learned the
different places, and now he does very well all by himself. He has often
taken travellers, and we have always been complimented about him. As for
intelligence, don't be afraid--he has as much as you or I. He needs only
speech, but speech isn't required. If it was to show a monument,
now--why, yes, for then it would be necessary to give some account and
know the historical dates; but here there are only the beauties of
nature. Take Blacky, and it will be cheaper also; my husband would cost
three francs, whereas Blacky is only thirty sous, and he will show you
as much for thirty sous as my husband would for three francs."

"Very well; and where is Blacky?"

"He is resting in the sun, in the garden. Already this morning he has
taken some English people to the Caldron. Shall I call him?"

"Yes, call him."

"Blacky! Blacky!"

He came with a leap through the window. He was a rather ugly-looking
little dog, with long frizzy hair, all mussed; he wasn't much to look
at, but he had, however, about him a certain air of gravity, resolution,
and importance. His first glance was at me--a clear, searching,
confident look that took me in from head to toe, and that seemed to say,
"It's a traveller, and he wants to see the Caldron."

One train missed sufficed me for