yed in the morning, and found it well built, airy, and
clean. The townhouse is a handsome fabrick with a portico. We then went
to view the English chapel, and found a small church, clean to a degree
unknown in any other part of Scotland, with commodious galleries, and
what was yet less expected, with an organ.
At our inn we did not find a reception such as we thought proportionate
to the commercial opulence of the place; but Mr. Boswell desired me to
observe that the innkeeper was an Englishman, and I then defended him as
well as I could.
When I had proceeded thus far, I had opportunities of observing what I
had never heard, that there are many beggars in Scotland. In Edinburgh
the proportion is, I think, not less than in London, and in the smaller
places it is far greater than in English towns of the same extent. It
must, however, be allowed that they are not importunate, nor clamorous.
They solicit silently, or very modestly, and therefore though their
behaviour may strike with more force the heart of a stranger, they are
certainly in danger of missing the attention of their countrymen. Novelty
has always some power, an unaccustomed mode of begging excites an
unaccustomed degree of pity. But the force of novelty is by its own
nature soon at an end; the efficacy of outcry and perseverance is
permanent and certain.
The road from Montrose exhibited a continuation of the same appearances.
The country is still naked, the hedges are of stone, and the fields so
generally plowed that it is hard to imagine where grass is found for the
horses that till them. The harvest, which was almost ripe, appeared very
plentiful.
Early in the afternoon Mr. Boswell observed that we were at no great
distance from the house of lord Monboddo. The magnetism of his
conversation easily drew us out of our way, and the entertainment which
we received would have been a sufficient recompense for a much greater
deviation.
The roads beyond Edinburgh, as they are less frequented, must be expected
to grow gradually rougher; but they were hitherto by no means
incommodious. We travelled on with the gentle pace of a Scotch driver,
who having no rivals in expedition, neither gives himself nor his horses
unnecessary trouble. We did not affect the impatience we did not feel,
but were satisfied with the company of each other as well riding in the
chaise, as sitting at an inn. The night and the day are equally solitary
and equally safe; for
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