n Sky,
whose knowledge and politeness give him a title equally to kindness and
respect, and who, from this time, never forsook us till we were preparing
to leave Sky, and the adjacent places.

The boat was under the direction of Mr. Malcolm Macleod, a gentleman of
Raasay. The water was calm, and the rowers were vigorous; so that our
passage was quick and pleasant. When we came near the island, we saw the
laird's house, a neat modern fabrick, and found Mr. Macleod, the
proprietor of the Island, with many gentlemen, expecting us on the beach.
We had, as at all other places, some difficulty in landing. The craggs
were irregularly broken, and a false step would have been very
mischievous.

It seemed that the rocks might, with no great labour, have been hewn
almost into a regular flight of steps; and as there are no other landing
places, I considered this rugged ascent as the consequence of a form of
life inured to hardships, and therefore not studious of nice
accommodations. But I know not whether, for many ages, it was not
considered as a part of military policy, to keep the country not easily
accessible. The rocks are natural fortifications, and an enemy climbing
with difficulty, was easily destroyed by those who stood high above him.

Our reception exceeded our expectations. We found nothing but civility,
elegance, and plenty. After the usual refreshments, and the usual
conversation, the evening came upon us. The carpet was then rolled off
the floor; the musician was called, and the whole company was invited to
dance, nor did ever fairies trip with greater alacrity. The general air
of festivity, which predominated in this place, so far remote from all
those regions which the mind has been used to contemplate as the mansions
of pleasure, struck the imagination with a delightful surprise, analogous
to that which is felt at an unexpected emersion from darkness into light.

When it was time to sup, the dance ceased, and six and thirty persons sat
down to two tables in the same room. After supper the ladies sung Erse
songs, to which I listened as an English audience to an Italian opera,
delighted with the sound of words which I did not understand.

I inquired the subjects of the songs, and was told of one, that it was a
love song, and of another, that it was a farewell composed by one of the
Islanders that was going, in this epidemical fury of emigration, to seek
his fortune in America. What sentiments would ar