chieftain is a monarch, and politeness,
the natural product of royal government, is diffused from the laird
through the whole clan. But they are not commonly dexterous: their
narrowness of life confines them to a few operations, and they are
accustomed to endure little wants more than to remove them.
We mounted our steeds on the thirtieth of August, and directed our guides
to conduct us to Fort Augustus. It is built at the head of Lough Ness,
of which Inverness stands at the outlet. The way between them has been
cut by the soldiers, and the greater part of it runs along a rock,
levelled with great labour and exactness, near the water-side.
Most of this day's journey was very pleasant. The day, though bright,
was not hot; and the appearance of the country, if I had not seen the
Peak, would have been wholly new. We went upon a surface so hard and
level, that we had little care to hold the bridle, and were therefore at
full leisure for contemplation. On the left were high and steep rocks
shaded with birch, the hardy native of the North, and covered with fern
or heath. On the right the limpid waters of Lough Ness were beating
their bank, and waving their surface by a gentle agitation. Beyond them
were rocks sometimes covered with verdure, and sometimes towering in
horrid nakedness. Now and then we espied a little cornfield, which
served to impress more strongly the general barrenness.
Lough Ness is about twenty-four miles long, and from one mile to two
miles broad. It is remarkable that Boethius, in his description of
Scotland, gives it twelve miles of breadth. When historians or
geographers exhibit false accounts of places far distant, they may be
forgiven, because they can tell but what they are told; and that their
accounts exceed the truth may be justly supposed, because most men
exaggerate to others, if not to themselves: but Boethius lived at no
great distance; if he never saw the lake, he must have been very
incurious, and if he had seen it, his veracity yielded to very slight
temptations.
Lough Ness, though not twelve miles broad, is a very remarkable diffusion
of water without islands. It fills a large hollow between two ridges of
high rocks, being supplied partly by the torrents which fall into it on
either side, and partly, as is supposed, by springs at the bottom. Its
water is remarkably clear and pleasant, and is imagined by the natives to
be medicinal. We were told, that it is in some plac
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