tongue, of which we did not understand one single
word. Meanwhile, we stood humbly apart, like poor wretches incapable
even of soliciting a favour for themselves. When the harangue was
completed, the host invited us to seat ourselves on the carpet, presented
to each a cup of tea with milk, and told us, in Mongol, that he was
rejoiced that strangers, come from such a distance, that Lamas of the
Western Heaven, should deign to cast their eyes upon his poor dwelling.
Had he understood our European idioms, our answer would have been: Pray
don't mention it; but as we had to speak in Mongol, we told him that we
had, indeed, come from a great distance, but that, in great measure, we
seemed once more at home, when we had the good fortune to meet with
hospitality such as his. After having sipped the tea, and conversed for
a while about France, Rome, the Pope, and the cardinals, we got up, in
order to visit the place destined for us, which, for poor wanderers like
us, seemed perfectly magnificent. Our host assigned to us a large room,
with an ample kang, a separate kitchen, with stove, kettle, and other
utensils, and, lastly, a stable for the horse and the mule. We almost
wept with joy, and infinitely regretted that we had not another Khata at
hand, wherewith at once to express our warm gratitude to the excellent
Lama.

How potent is the empire of religion over the heart of man, even though
that religion be false, and ignorant of its true object! How great was
the difference, for example, between these Lamas, so generous, so
hospitable, so fraternal towards strangers, and the Chinese, that
thorough nation of shopkeepers, with hearts dry as a ship-biscuit, and
grasping as a monkey, who will not give a traveller even a cup of water
except for money or money's worth. The reception given to us in the
Lamasery of Kounboum at once recalled to our thoughts those monasteries,
raised by the hospitality of our religious ancestors, in which travellers
and the poor ever found refreshment for the body and consolation for the
soul.

We moved into our new dwelling the same day, the Lamas, more immediately
neighbours of Sandara, cordially giving us their assistance. It was
obviously with genuine pleasure that they carried for us, on their
shoulders, the various articles composing our baggage; that they swept
the room, lighted the fire, and arranged the stable for the reception of
the animals. When all these matters were completed, the