eing in no degree better here than at Tang-Keou-Eul, the haughty
uncouthness of their devotion presented a singular contrast with the
fervent, humble mysticism of the Mongols. They walked proudly, with
heads erect, the right arm out of the sleeve and resting on their sabre
hilts, and with fusils at their backs. The Si-Fan of the Amdo country
formed the majority of the pilgrims. Their physiognomy expressed neither
the rough recklessness of the Long Hairs, nor the honest good faith and
good nature of the Tartars. They accomplished their pilgrimage with an
air of ease and nonchalance which seemed to say, "We are people of the
place; we know all about the matter, and need not put ourselves at all
out of the way."

The head-dress of the Amdo women occasioned us an agreeable surprise; it
was a little bonnet of black or grey felt, the form of which was
identical with that of the bonnets which were once all the fashion in
France, and which were called, if we remember aright, _Chapeaux a la
trois pour cent_. The only difference was, that the riband by which the
bonnet was tied under the chin, instead of being black, was red or
yellow. The hair was allowed to fall from under the bonnet over the
shoulders, in a number of minute braids, decorated with mother-of-pearl
and coral beads. The rest of the costume was like that of the Tartar
women, the weighty effect of the great sheepskin robe being, however,
mightily modified by the little _Chapeaux a la trois pour cent_, which
communicates a most coquettish air. We were greatly surprised to find
among the crowd of pilgrims several Chinese who, chaplet in hand, were
executing all the prostrations just like the rest. Sandara the Bearded
told us they were Khata merchants, who, though they did not believe in
Buddha at all, pretended intense devotion to him, in order to conciliate
custom among his followers. We cannot say whether this was calumny on
Sandara's part; but certainly his representation concurred altogether
with our knowledge of the Chinese character.

On the 15th, the pilgrims again made the circuit of the Lamasery, but by
no means in such numbers as on the preceding days. Curiosity impelled
the great majority rather towards the points where preparations were
making for the Feast of Flowers. When night fell, Sandara came and
invited us to go and see the marvellous butter works of which we had
heard so much. We accordingly proceeded with him, accompanied by the
Stut