es are generally fringed. There are Khatas of all sizes and all
prices, for a Khata is an object with which neither poor nor rich can
dispense. No one ever moves unless provided with a supply. When you go
to pay a visit, when you go to ask a favour, or to acknowledge one, you
begin with displaying the Khata; you take it in both hands, and offer it
to the person whom you desire to honour. When two friends, who have not
seen each other for a long time, meet, their first proceeding is to
interchange a Khata; it is as much a matter of course as shaking hands in
Europe. When you write, it is usual to enclose a Khata in the letter.
We cannot exaggerate the importance which the Thibetians, the Si-Fan, the
Houng-Mao-Eul, and all the people who dwell towards the western shores of
the Blue Sea, attach to the ceremony of the Khata. With them, it is the
purest and sincerest expression of all the noblest sentiments. The most
gracious words, the most magnificent presents go for nothing, if
unaccompanied with the Khata; whereas, with the Khata, the commonest
objects become of infinite value. If any one comes, Khata in hand, to
ask you a favour, to refuse the favour would be a great breach of
propriety. This Thibetian custom is very general among the Tartars, and
especially in their Lamaseries; and Khatas accordingly form a very
leading feature of commerce with the Chinese at Tang-Keou-Eul. The
Thibetian embassy never passes through the town without purchasing a
prodigious number of these articles.

When we had finished our modest breakfast, we issued forth in search of a
lodging. Sandara the Bearded preceded us, bearing gravely on both hands
the famous dish of four pears. This proceeding seemed to us so strange,
that we were altogether confused, imagining that the entire population
would have their eyes fixed upon us. Nothing of the sort: the Lamas,
whom we met, passed silently on, without even turning their heads, or
paying the slightest attention to us in any way. The little chabis,
harum-scarum rogues in common with schoolboys all over the world, alone
seemed to notice our presence. At last we entered a house. The master
was in the court-yard, drying horse droppings in the sun. Upon
perceiving us, he immediately enveloped himself in his scarf, and entered
his cell. We followed him thither, and Sandara presented to him the
Khata and the plate of pears, accompanying the present with an harangue
in the East Thibetian