out paganism. The Church of St. Procopius is no longer in evidence, and
as there have been further additions and improvements to the quarter of
Prague in question since the eighth century, it is now quite impossible,
even to the liveliest imagination, to fix upon the spot where stood that
first house. It does not matter very much either. The Hrad[vs]any itself
is easily the most imposing and interesting sight which Prague has to
offer.

The massive strength of the castle, the Hrad[vs]any, holds your gaze
from whatever quarter of Prague you may happen to look out. The castle,
as we know, has a hill to itself, up the sides of which rise clustering
palaces, churches, convents and monasteries, buildings of grey stone and
red-tiled roofs, standing amidst terraced gardens. In spring this
ancient quarter decks itself with glorious apparel of white of cherry,
pear and plum, with here and there the delicate pink of almond blossom;
in winter, when the snow lies "smooth and crisp and even," the scene is
changed into a fairy network as of delicate lace on a foundation of grey
and purple; in all seasons it is beautiful.

[Illustration]

[Illustration: THE HRAD[vc]ANY FROM THE FUERSTENBERG GARDEN.]

The first sight of the Hrad[vs]any conveys an impression of sheer
strength, much as does Gibraltar; it also suggests a lion couchant but
watchful and strong to protect the city at its feet; this effect is
particularly noticeable from the Fuerstenberg garden. The beauty of this
massive pile grows upon you gradually as you see it under the
ever-varying atmospheric conditions of Prague. By all the canons of
art the long straight lines of the Hrad[vs]any should be unlovely. The
towers which broke those lines no longer stand out boldly as shown in
old prints and engravings, at least on the townward side of the castle.
They have been gradually merged into the general mass of the building as
time and progress brought greater demands for living room and lessened
the need of defensive measures. The straight outlines are still broken
here and there by some trace of the ancient building showing through, a
mullioned window, an old stack of chimneys, but on the whole, the mass
by itself is heavy and uniform. Nevertheless, the general effect is
splendid, whether you see this stately pile standing out strong and
massive above the mist from the river or rising in tiers out of dimmed
silvery greys against an evening sky all gold and emerald, or flushed