l in front, and at
the back of the guard-house, was literally covered with these structures.
Each passer-by deposits a stone on one of them--a white stone if
possible--and this is supposed to bring him good fortune, or if he has a
wish he desires accomplished, such a contribution will enhance the
chances of its fulfilment.

The guard-house itself was of rough stone, mean and desolate, and in any
country but Tibet would not be considered fit accommodation for pigs.

After going a mile or so farther, as the sun was fast disappearing, we
searched for a suitable spot to pitch our tents. There was no sign of any
water, only the stony bed of a dried rivulet. We were discussing the
situation, when a faint sound as of rushing water struck our ears. It
grew louder and louder, and then we saw coming towards us a stream of
limpid molten snow, gradually advancing over the bed of stones. Evidently
the snow of the mountains had taken all day to melt, and the water was
only now reaching this spot. My dacoit was in a great state of
excitement.

"Water flowing to you, sahib!" he exclaimed, with his arms outstretched.
"You will have great luck! Look! Look! You want water for your camp, and
a stream comes to you! Heaven blesses you. You must dip your fingers into
the water as soon as it comes up to you, and throw some drops over your
shoulders. Then will fortune attend you on your journey."

I readily fell in with this Tibetan superstition, and we all dipped our
fingers, and sprinkled the water behind our backs. Wilson, however, who
took the matter quite seriously, said it was all nonsense, and would not
give in to such "childish fancy."

Good fortune would have meant much to me, but in the days to come this
simple rite proved to have been futile!

[15] Hundes = Tibet.

CHAPTER XXVIII

An extensive valley--Kiang, or wild horse--Their strange
ways--The Gyanema fort--Apprehension at our appearance--A
parley--"Cut off our heads!"--Revolt and murder
contemplated--Hypocritical ways of Tibetan officials--Help
summoned from everywhere--Preparing for war.

IN front of our camp was a great stretch of flat alluvial land, which had
been, to all appearance, at some remote time the bed of a large lake
about ten miles long and fourteen wide. With my telescope I could see
plainly to 40 deg. (b.m.), at the foot of a small hill, the camping-ground of
Karko. There were many tents, and my men seemed much reassur