half-starved and
fagged, could go no farther. Their wet loads were considerably heavier
than usual, they panted terribly owing to the great altitude, and no
sooner had we come to a partially sheltered spot between the larger lake
and its most eastern neighbouring sheet of water, than they all collapsed
and were unable to proceed. I was much concerned about them, as they
refused to take any cold food, saying it would cause their death. I was
really at a loss to see how they could recover sufficient strength for
the next day's marching. Eventually, by personally pledging them that
they would not die, I persuaded them to eat a little _sato_ and _ghur_.
Unfortunately, no sooner had they eaten some of it mixed with cold water,
than nearly all were seized with violent pains in their stomachs, from
which they suffered for the greater part of the night.

There is no doubt that experience had taught them that eating cold food
at great altitudes is more dangerous than eating no food at all, and I
regretted my ill-timed, if kindly meant advice. One is apt to judge other
people by oneself, and personally I never felt any difference, whether my
food was cold or hot.

[Illustration: BURIED IN SNOW]

Soon after sunset the cold was intense. It was still snowing hard, and
our wet garments and blankets were now freezing. I lighted a small spirit
lamp, round which we all sat close together, and covered over with our
frozen wraps. I even attempted to cook on the flame some concentrated
broth, but, owing to the high altitude, the water was a long time losing
its chill, apart from boiling, and when it was just getting tepid the
flame went out, and I could afford no more spirits of wine to light it
again: so the cooking had to be abandoned, and as the night grew colder
and colder, we huddled together under our respective blankets in a vain
attempt to sleep. We had made a protecting wall with our baggage, and my
men covered their heads and everything with their blankets; but I never
could adopt their style of sleeping, as it seemed to suffocate me. I
always slept with my head uncovered, for not only was it more
comfortable, but I wished to be on the alert should we at any time be
surprised by Tibetans. My men moaned, groaned, and chattered their teeth
convulsively during the night. I woke many times with a bad pain in my
ears from frostbite; my eyes, too, suffered as the eyelashes became
covered with icicles. Every time I tried to open them