AMA CHOKDEN]

Accordingly the officer in command had this large sum deposited in the
outstretched palm of his hand, and to show his satisfaction, he pulled
out his tongue to its full length, waving both his hands at me for some
minutes, and bowing clumsily at the same time. His fur cap had been
previously removed and thrown on the ground. This was indeed a grand
salaam, a ceremonious acknowledgment of a gift of something less than
fourpence!

While the doctor remained in conversation with him, I happened to witness
a very beautiful sight. To the north the clouds had dispersed, and the
snow-capped sacred Kelas Mount stood majestic before us. In appearance
not unlike the graceful roof of a temple, Kelas towers over the long
white-capped range, contrasting in beautiful blending of tints with the
warm sienna colour of the lower elevations. Kelas is some two thousand
feet higher than the other peaks of the Gangir chain, with strongly
defined ledges and terraces marking its stratifications, and covered with
horizontal layers of snow standing out in brilliant colour against the
dark ice-worn rock. The Tibetans, the Nepalese, the Shokas, the Humlis,
Jumlis and Hindoos, all have a strong veneration for this mountain, which
is believed by them to be the abode of all the good gods, especially of
the god Siva. In fact, the ledge round its base is said by the Hindoos to
be the mark of the ropes used by the devil (Rakas) to pull down the
throne of Siva.

My men, with heads uncovered, their faces turned towards the sacred peak,
were muttering prayers. With joined hands, which they slowly raised as
high as the forehead, they prayed fervently, and then went down on their
knees, with heads bent low to the ground. My brigand follower, who was
standing close by me, hurriedly whispered that I should join in this act
of prayer.

"You must keep friends with the gods," said the bandit; "misfortune will
attend you if you do not salaam to Kelas; that is the home of a good
god!" and he pointed to the peak with the most devout air of conviction.

To please him I saluted the mountain with the utmost deference, and,
taking my cue from the others, placed a white stone on one of the
hundreds of _Chokdens_ or _Obos_ (stone pillars) erected by devotees at
this spot. These _Obos_, or rough pyramids of stones, are found on the
tracks traversing all high passes, near lakes, in fact, everywhere, but
rarely in such quantities as at Lama Chokden. The hil