s, touched here and there the
shadowed slopes and threw belts of light upon the water--and these
illuminated spots finely relieved the otherwise sombre depth of colour.
Our boat was slow, and we had between two and three hours of unsurpassed
scenery before reaching our destination. An immense raft of timber,
gathered from the loose logs which are floated down the Lougen Elv, lay
at the head of the lake, which contracts into the famous Guldbrandsdal.
On the brow of a steep hill on the right lay the little town of
Lillehammer, where we were ere long quartered in a very comfortable
hotel.

CHAPTER XXII.

GULDBRANDSDAL AND THE DOVRE FJELD.

We left Lillehammer on a heavenly Sabbath morning. There was scarcely a
cloud in the sky, the air was warm and balmy, and the verdure of the
valley, freshened by the previous day's rain, sparkled and glittered in
the sun. The Miosen Lake lay blue and still to the south, and the bald
tops of the mountains which inclose Guldbrandsdal stood sharp and clear,
and almost shadowless, in the flood of light which streamed up the
valley. Of Lillehammer, I can only say that it is a commonplace town of
about a thousand inhabitants. It had a cathedral and bishop some six
hundred years ago, no traces of either of which now remain. We drove out
of it upon a splendid new road, leading up the eastern bank of the
river, and just high enough on the mountain side to give the loveliest
views either way. Our horses were fast and spirited, and the motion of
our carrioles over the firmly macadamised road was just sufficient to
keep the blood in nimble circulation. Rigid Sabbatarians may be shocked
at our travelling on that day; but there were few hearts in all the
churches of Christendom whose hymns of praise were more sincere and
devout than ours. The Lougen roared an anthem for us from his rocky
bed; the mountain streams, flashing down their hollow channels, seemed
hastening to join it; the mountains themselves stood silent, with
uncovered heads; and over all the pale-blue northern heaven looked
lovingly and gladly down--a smile of God upon the grateful earth. There
is no Sabbath worship better than the simple enjoyment of such a day.

Toward the close of the stage, our road descended to the banks of the
Lougen, which here falls in a violent rapid--almost a cataract--over a
barrier of rocks. Masses of water, broken or wrenched from the body of
the river, are hurled intermittently high into the air