nd were fortunate in securing the two vacant
rooms. The hotel business in Norway is far behind that of any other
country, except in regard to charges, where it is far in advance.
Considering what one gets for his money, this is the most expensive
country in the world for foreigners. Except where the rates are fixed by
law, as in posting, the natives pay much less; and here is an instance
of double-dealing which does not harmonise with the renowned honesty of
the Norwegians. At the Belle-Vue, we were furnished with three very
meagre meals a day, at the rate of two dollars and a half. The
attendance was performed by two boys of fourteen or fifteen, whose
services, as may be supposed, were quite inadequate to the wants of near
twenty persons. The whole business of the establishment devolved on
these two fellows, the landlady, though good-humoured and corpulent, as
was meet, knowing nothing about the business, and, on the whole, it was
a wonder that matters were not worse. It is singular that in a pastoral
country like Norway one gets nothing but rancid butter, and generally
sour cream, where both should be of the finest quality. Nature is
sparing of her gifts, to be sure; but what she does furnish is of the
best, as it comes from her hand. Of course, one does not look for much
culinary skill, and is therefore not disappointed, but the dairy is the
primitive domestic art of all races, and it is rather surprising to find
it in so backward a state.

My friend, who received no letters, and had no transatlantic interests
to claim his time, as I had, applied himself to seeing the place, which
he accomplished, with praiseworthy industry, in one day. He walked out
to the falls of the Nid, three miles up the valley, and was charmed with
them. He then entered the venerable cathedral, where he had the
satisfaction of seeing a Protestant clergyman perform high mass in a
scarlet surplice, with a gold cross on his back. The State Church of
Norway, which, like that of Sweden, is Lutheran of a very antiquated
type, not only preserves this ritual, but also the form of confession
(in a general way, I believe, and without reference to particular sins)
and of absolution. Of course, it is violently dogmatic and illiberal,
and there is little vital religious activity in the whole country. Until
within a very few years, no other sects were tolerated, and even yet
there is simply freedom of conscience, but not equal political rights,
for those of