210

CHAPTER XIX.

JOURNEY TO GOTTENBURG AND COPENHAGEN.

Appearance of Spring--Departure from Stockholm--The Gotha Canal
--Vreta Kloster--Scenery of the Wener--European Ideas concerning
America--A Democratic Nobleman--The Gotha River--Gottenburg--The
Giant's Pots--The Cattegat--Elsinore--The Sound Dues--Copenhagen
and its Inhabitants--Thorwaldsen--Interview with Hans Christian
Andersen--Goldschmidt--Prof. Rafn. 222

CHAPTER XX.

RETURN TO THE NORTH.--CHRISTIANIA.

Visit to Germany and England--The Steamer at Hull--The North Sea
--Fellow-Passengers--Christiansand--The Coast of Norway--Arrival
at Christiania--Preparations for Travelling--The Carriole--Progress
of Christiania--Beauty of its Environs. 235

CHAPTER XXI.

INCIDENTS OF CARRIOLE TRAVEL.

Disinterested Advice--Departure--Alarm--Descending the Hills--The
Skyds System--Krogkleven--The King's View--Country and Country
People--Summer Scenery--The Randsfjord--A Cow-Whale--The Miosen
Lake--More than we bargained for--Astonishing Kindness--The Lake
from a Steamer. 242

CHAPTER XXII.

GULDBRANDSDAL AND THE DOVRE FJELD.

Lillehammer--A Sabbath Morning--A Picture of Dahi--Guldbrandsdal
--Annoyances of Norwegian Travel--The Lougen River--Cataracts--The
Station at Viik--Sinclair's Defeat--Pass of the Rusten--The Upper
Valley--Scenery of the Dovre Fjeld--Solitude of the Mountains--
Jerkin--Summit of the Fjeld--Nature in the North--Defile of the
Driv--A Silent Country--Valley of the Orkla--Park Scenery--A
Cunning Hostess--Solidity of Norwegian Women. 254

CHAPTER XXIII.

DRONTHEIM.--VOYAGE UP THE COAST OF NORWAY.

Panorama of Drontheim--Its Streets and Houses--Quarters at the
Hotel--Protestant High Mass--Norwegian Steamers--Parting View of
--Drontheim--The Namsen Fjord--Settlements on the Coast--The Rock
of Torghatten--The Seven Sisters--Singular Coast Scenery--The
Horseman--Crossing the Arctic Circle--Coasting Craft--Bodo--An
Arctic Sunset. 269

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE LOFODEN ISLES.

Habits of the Arctic Summer--The Lofoden Islands--Moskoe--The
Myth of the Maelstrom--The Lofoden Fishermen--Improvement in
the People--Lofoden Scenery--The Rasksund--Disappearance of
Daylight--Character of the Scenery--Tromsoe at Midnight.