undation, Cordonnet 6
fils D.M.C No. 1, which is better for padding than the grey whip cord,
as it can be had in white or yellow, according to whether it is intended
to serve as a foundation to silver or gold work.

[Illustration: FIG. 248. EMBROIDERY IN FLATTENED GOLD WIRE AND PURL.]

Lay down as many cords as are necessary to give the design the requisite
thickness, in many cases up to 8 or 10 m/m. in height, taking care to
lay them closely and solidly in the centre, and graduate them down at
the sides and ends. When you have finished the foundation, edge it with
a thick gold cord, such as Cordonnet d'or D.M.C No. 6 and then only
begin the actual embroidery, all the directions just given, applying
merely to the preparatory work.

Only four of the many stitches that are already in use and might be
devised are described here. For the pattern, represented in fig. 248,
flattened gold or silver wire is necessary, which should be cut into
pieces, long enough to be turned in at the ends so as to form a little
loop through which the thread that fastens them down is passed. Over
each length of gold or silver wire small lengths of purl are laid at
regular intervals, close enough just to leave room for the next stitch,
the pieces of one row, alternating in position with those of the
preceding one.

PLAITED STITCH IN GOLD PURL ON A CORD FOUNDATION (fig. 249).
--Distribute the stitches as in the previous figure, substituting purl,
for the flattened gold wire, and covering the purl with short lengths of
gold thread of the same kind. All these stitches may be worked in gold
and silver thread, mixed or in the one, or the other alone.

[Illustration: FIG. 249. PLAITED STITCH IN GOLD PURL ON A CORD
FOUNDATION.]

SCALE STITCH WORKED IN GOLD THREAD AND PURL ON A CORD FOUNDATION (fig.
250).--Begin by covering the whole padded surface with gold or silver
thread, then sew on short lengths of purl, long enough to cover six or
eight threads, 2 or 3 m/m. apart, as shown in the engraving. These
stitches in dead gold purl are then surrounded by shining or crimped
purl.

[Illustration: FIG. 250. SCALE STITCH IN GOLD THREAD AND PURL ON A CORD
FOUNDATION.]

You bring out the working thread to the left of the purl stitch, which
you take on your needle, put the needle in on the other side, draw it
out above the little stroke, and secure the crimped purl with an
invisible stitch.

CONVENTIONAL FLOWER WORKED ON A CORD FOUNDATION (fig. 251).