On the Monday I rode off to our
Divisional Headquarters, which were in a fine old chateau at Tilques.
I had a pleasant billet in a comfortable house at the entrance to the
town, and the different units of the Division were encamped in the
quaint villages round about. After their experience in the Salient,
the men were glad to have a little peace and rest; although they knew
they were on their journey to bigger and harder things. The country
around St. Omer was so fresh and beautiful that the change of scene
did everyone good. The people too were exceedingly kind and wherever
we went we found that the Canadians were extremely popular. There were
many interesting old places near by which brought back memories of
French history. However, the day came when we had to move. From
various points the battalions entrained for the South. On Monday,
August 28th, I travelled by train with the 3rd Field Company of
Engineers and finally found myself in a billet at Canaples. After two
or three days we settled at a place called Rubempre. Here I had a
clean billet beside a very malodorous pond which the village cows used
as their drinking place. The country round us was quite different in
character from what it had been further north. Wide stretches of open
ground and rolling hills, with here and there patches of green woods,
made up a very pleasant landscape. I rode one day to Amiens and
visited the glorious cathedral which I had not seen since I came (p. 136)
there as a boy thirty-three years before. I attended the service of
Benediction that evening at six o'clock. The sunlight was streaming
through the glorious windows, and the whole place was filled with a
beauty that seemed to be not of earth. There was a large congregation
present and it was made up of a varied lot of people. There were women
in deep mourning, Sisters of Charity and young children. There were
soldiers and old men. But they were all one in their spirit of humble
adoration and intercession. The organ pealed out its noble strains
until the whole place was vibrant with devotion. I shall never forget
the impression that service made upon me. The next time I saw the
cathedral, Amiens was deserted of its inhabitants, four shells had
pierced the sacred fane itself, and the long aisles, covered with bits
of broken glass, were desolate and silent.

From Rubempre we moved to Albert, where we were billeted in a small
house on a back street. Our Battle Headquarters were in t