work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from
*, and fasten the cotton. After having fastened both ends together
again, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallops
upwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl
which is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2
double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under the
next loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed.

* * * * *

28.--_Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery
cotton No. 60; square netting.

[Illustration: 28.--Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting]

The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over a
mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The collar is ornamented
round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work a straight strip of
netting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwards
and forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last row
has 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work with
the same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and
decreasing 1 at the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently
long, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form
the side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each,
cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on
the needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick
cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is
completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6
double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double,
draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inch
between the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a short
distance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to the
preceding one after the first 3 double stitches. Work a row of double
overcast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; work
this row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar on
the grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also
a row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a
little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close to the
row