close to the outlines (when the button-hole is very small merely insert
the point of the scissors or a stiletto into the material), fold the
edge of the material back with the needle, and work the hole in overcast
stitch, inserting the needle into the empty place in the centre and
drawing it out under the outline. Some button-holes are worked
separately; sometimes they are in a row; if so, take care to begin to
work each button-hole at the place where it touches the next. In the
following button-holes the outside must be traced double, so as to reach
as far as the next one, but each button-hole is finished at once.
Illustration 86 shows a button-hole worked round in button-hole stitch,
87 an eyelet-hole worked in overcast.

[Illustration: 86.--Button and Eyelet Holes.]

[Illustration: 87.--Button and Eyelet Holes.]

[Illustration: 88.--Shaded Button-hole.]

[Illustration: 89.--Shaded Button-hole.]

ILLUSTRATIONS 88 & 89.--Shaded button-holes are worked like the others,
only they are prepared, as can be seen in illustration 89, so as to mark
the thickness. The stitches must gradually get narrower or wider, and be
worked very close to each other.

[Illustration: 90.--Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATIONS 90 & 91 (_Two Leaves in Raised Satin Stitch_).--In a leaf
like the one seen in 90 work first the outline and veining in overcast
stitch; work one half of the leaf in satin stitch, and the other half
between the overcast outline and veining in back stitch. The stem of a
leaf is always worked last.

[Illustration: 91.--Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch.]

[Illustration: 92.--Raised Leaf.]

ILLUSTRATIONS 92 & 93 (_Two Leaves in Satin Stitch and Point de
Plume_).--For leaves like the one seen in 93 begin with the veinings,
then work the inner points, then the outer ones, and lastly the raised
spots in the centre. The leaf seen in 92 is worked, one half in _point
de plume_, the other half in back stitch or _point d'or_.

[Illustration: 93.--Raised Leaf.]

[Illustration: 94.--Leaf.]

ILLUSTRATION 94.--- The outline of this leaf is embroidered in overcast
stitch; the open-work veining consists of eyelets; one half of the leaf
is worked in back stitch, the other half in a kind of satin stitch
worked without chain stitches underneath; the stitches are worked
across the leaf, leaving between two stitches an interval as wide as the
stitch itself. The next row is then worked in these intervals, and each
sti