m dry.

Try each compartment for leaks by turning water in them one at a
time. Bore a 5/8-in. hole through each spreader in the center and
through the

[Illustration: Crosspiece and Rudder Details]

bottom board as shown. The top board, which is 1/4-in. thick, 12
in. wide and 16 ft. long, is put on the same as the bottom.

After finishing both pontoons in this way place them parallel. A
block of wood is fastened on top of each pontoon and exactly over
each spreader on which to bolt the crosspieces as shown in Fig. 4.
Each block is cut to the shape and with the dimensions shown in
Fig. 5.

The crosspieces are made from hickory or ash and each piece is
2-1/2 in. thick, 5 in. wide and 6-1/2 ft. long. Bore a 5/8-in.
hole 3 in. from each end through the 5-in. way of the wood. Take
maple flooring 3/4 in. thick, 6 in. wide, 74-1/2 in. long and
fasten with large screws and washers to the crosspieces and put
battens across every 18 in. Turn the flooring and crosspieces
upside down and fasten to the pontoons with long 5/8-in. bolts put
through the spreaders. Put a washer on the head of each bolt and
run them through from the under side. Place a thick rubber washer
under and on top of each crosspiece at the ends as shown in Fig.
4. This will make a rigid yet flexible joint for rough waters. The
flooring being placed on the under side of the crosspieces makes
it possible to get the sail boom very low. The sides put on and
well fastened will greatly assist in stiffening the platform and
help it to stand the racking strains. These sides will also keep
the water and spray out and much more so if a 12-in. dash is put
on in front on top of the crosspiece.

The rudders are made as shown in Fig. 6, by using an iron rod 5/8
in. in diameter and 2 ft. long for the bearing of each. This rod
is split with a hacksaw for 7 in. of its length and a sheet metal
plate 3/32 in. thick, 6 in. wide, and 12 in. long inserted and
riveted in the split. This will allow 3/4 in. of the iron rod to
project from the bottom edge of the metal through which a hole is
drilled for a cotter pin. The bottom bracket is made from stake
iron bent in the shape of a U as shown, the rudder bearing passing
through a hole drilled in the upper leg and resting on the lower.
Slip the top bracket on and then bend the top end of the bearing
rod at an angle as shown in both Figs. 6 and 7. Connect the two
bent ends with a crosspiece which has a hole drilled in its center
t