7, and the ends are lap-jointed to
the stem and stern pieces as shown in Fig. 4. When this piece is
fastened in place, the base can be removed. The seats are attached
as shown in Fig. 8, and the small pieces for each end are fitted
as shown in Fig. 9.
The frame of the canoe is now ready to be covered. This will
require 5-1/2 yd. of extra-heavy canvas. Turn the framework of the
canoe upside down and place the canvas on it. The center of the
canvas is located and tacked to the center strip of the canoe at
the points where ribs are attached. Copper tacks should be used.
The canvas is then tacked to the ribs, beginning at the center rib
and working toward each end, carefully drawing the canvas as
tightly as possible and keeping it straight. At the ends the
canvas is split in the center and lapped over the bent wood. The
surplus canvas is cut off. A thin coat of glue is put on, to
shrink the cloth and make it waterproof.
The glue should be powdered and brought into liquid form in a
double boiler. A thin coat of this is applied with a paintbrush. A
small keel made of a strip of wood is placed on the bottom to
protect it when making a landing on sand and stones in shallow
[Illustration: A Single Paddle]
water. When the glue is thoroughly dry the canvas is covered with
two coats of paint, made up in any color with the best lead and
boiled linseed oil. The inside is coated with spar varnish to give
it a wood color.
The paddles may be made up in two ways, single or double. The
double paddle has a hickory pole, 7 ft. long and 2 in. in
diameter, for its center part. The paddle is made as shown in Fig.
10, of ash or cypress. It is 12 in. long, and 8 in. wide at the
widest part. The paddle end fits into a notch cut in the end of
the pole (Fig. 11).
A shield is made of a piece of tin or rubber and placed around the
pole near the paddle to prevent the water from running to the
center as the pole is tipped from side to side. The complete
paddle is shown in Fig. 12. A single paddle is made as shown in
Fig. 13. This is made of ash or any other tough wood. The
dimensions given in the sketch are sufficient without a
description.
** Thorns Used as Needles on a Phonograph [453]
Very sharp thorns can be used successfully as phonograph needles.
These substitutes will reproduce sound very clearly and with
beautiful tone. The harsh scratching of the ordinary needle is
reduced to a minimum, and the thorn is not injurious
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