mosquitoes, so that we could only sleep by making
several fires round us, the smoke from which partially protected us.
About three o'clock in the morning, which was very warm, we re-embarked,
and at noon arrived at the Sea Portage (why so called I know not, as it
is hundreds of miles inland), which is the last on the route. This
portage is very short, and is made to surmount a pretty large waterfall.
Almost immediately afterwards we entered Playgreen Lake, and put ashore
on a small island, to alter our attire before arriving at Norway House.

Here, with the woods for our closet, and the clear lake for our basin as
well as looking-glass, we proceeded to scrub our sunburnt faces; and in
half an hour, having made ourselves as respectable as circumstances
would permit, we paddled swiftly over the lake. It is pretty long, and
it was not until evening that I caught the first glimpse of the bright
spire of the Wesleyan Church at Rossville.

We now approached the termination of our journey, for the time at least;
and it was with pleasing recollections that I recognised the well-known
rocks where I had so often wandered three years before. When we came in
sight of the fort, it was in a state of bustle and excitement as usual,
and I could perceive from the vigorous shaking of hands going forward,
from the number of _voyageurs_ collected on the landing-place, and of
boats assembled at the wharf, that there had just been an arrival. Our
poor little canoe was not taken any notice of as it neared the wharf,
until some of the people on shore observed that there was some one in
the middle of it sitting in a very lazy, indolent position, which is
quite uncommon among Indians. In another minute we gained the bank, and
I grasped the hand of my kind friend and former chief, Mr Russ.

We had now been travelling twelve days, and had passed over upwards of
thirty portages during the voyage.

We ought to have performed this voyage in a much shorter time, as canoes
proceed faster than boats, which seldom take longer to complete this
voyage than we did; but this arose from our detention during high winds
in several of the lakes.

CHAPTER TEN.

VOYAGE TO CANADA BY THE GREAT LAKES OF THE INTERIOR--A BLACK BEAR--
HARASSING DETENTIONS--ANOTHER BEAR--MEET DR. RAE, THE ARCTIC
DISCOVERER--THE GUIDE'S STORY--MEET INDIANS--RUNNING THE RAPID--LAKE
SUPERIOR--A SQUALL--THE OTTAWA--CIVILISED LIFE AGAIN--SLEIGHING IN
CANADA.

At Norway House