s
Bain left me here, and proceeded by the route of the Lakes.

During the next few days we travelled through a number of rivers and
lakes of various sizes; among the latter were Lakes Huron and
Nipisingue. In crossing the latter, I observed a point on which were
erected fourteen rough wooden crosses. Such an unusual sight excited my
curiosity, and upon inquiring I found that they were planted there to
mark the place where a canoe, containing fourteen men, had been upset in
a gale, and every soul lost. The lake was clear and smooth when we
passed the melancholy spot, and many a rolling year has defaced and cast
down the crosses since the unfortunate men whose sad fate they
commemorate perished in the storm.

While searching about the shore one night for wood to make a fire, one
of our men found a large basket, made of bark, and filled with fine
bears'-grease, which had been hid by some Indians. This was considered
a great windfall; and ere two days were passed the whole of it was eaten
by the men, who buttered their flour cakes with it profusely.

Not long after this we passed a large waterfall, where a friend of mine
was once very nearly lost. A projecting point obliges the traveller to
run his canoe rather near the head of the fall, for the purpose of
landing to make the portage. From long habit the guides had been
accustomed to this, and always effected the doubling of the point in
safety. Upon this occasion, however, either from carelessness or
accident, the canoe got into the strong current, and almost in an
instant was swept down towards the fall. To turn the head of the canoe
up the stream, and paddle for their lives, was the work of a moment; but
before they got it fairly round they were on the very brink of the
cataract, which, had they gone over it, would have dashed them to a
thousand atoms. They paddled with the strength of desperation, but so
strong was the current that they remained almost stationary. At last
they began slowly to ascend--an inch at a time--and finally reached the
bank in safety.

On Sunday the 19th of October we commenced descending the magnificent
river Ottawa, and began to feel that we were at last approaching the
civilised nations of the earth. During the day we passed several small
log-huts, or shanties, which are the temporary dwelling-places of men
who penetrate thus far into the forest for the purpose of cutting
timber. A canoe full of these adventurous pioneers also