rly four
hundred churches of which the dome of St. Peter's is the most imposing.
In sight beyond are the Capitol, the ruins of the Colosseum, and ancient
tombs along the Appian Way. To the west on the Palatine Hill are the
ruins of the palace of the Caesars, and outside the walls, on the broad
Campagna, are the remains of several aqueducts converging on the city,
some of which, restored, are in use to-day.

The day's ride included a visit to Agrippa's Pantheon, now denuded of its
bronze roofing and marble exterior. A circular opening in the huge dome
admits both light and rain. Leo standing with Lucille by the tomb of
Raphael in one of the recesses, for a moment was silent. Then he said,
"Lucille, it is impossible to fully appreciate the many and beautiful
works of this 'prince of painters.' He was born on Good Friday, 1483, and
lived exactly thirty-seven years. He was of slight build, sallow, and had
brown eyes. Over nine hundred prints of his works are known. Besides his
works in fresco at the Vatican, for a time he had charge of the
construction of St. Peter's, and he also painted masterpieces now at
Bologna, Dresden, Madrid, Hampton Court, and executed numerous
commissions for Leo X.; and Madonnas, holy families, portraits, etc.,
for others. Raphael stands unrivaled, chiefly in his power to portray
lofty sentiments which persons of all nationalities can feel, but few
can describe. He also excelled in invention, composition, simplicity
and grandeur. For moral force in allegory and history, and for fidelity
in portrait, Raphael was unsurpassed. His last and most celebrated oil
picture, the transfiguration, unfinished, stood at his head as his body
lay in state."

Colonel Harris was interested in the restored Triumphal Arch of Titus
erected to commemorate the defeat of the Jews A.D. 70, also in the
beautiful Arch to Severus. At the end of the Rostra, or Orators' Tribune
was the Umbilicus Urbis Romae, or ideal center of Rome and the Roman
Empire. True it was that all roads led to Rome. Leo and Lucille visited
by moonlight the ruins of the great Colosseum, and the lights and shadows
in the huge old stone and brick amphitheater, made it look all the more
imposing and picturesque.

On the morning of the second day Leo Colonna guided his friends down the
Via di Ripetta, stopping at the Mausoleum of Augustus, which in the
middle ages was used by the Colonnas as a fortress. Then continuing down
the left bank of the Tiber,