aboard a train moving towards Rome. When the station in the eastern part
of the city was reached, a carriage conveyed the Harrises along the Corso
which at the hour of their driving was enlivened by many vehicles and
foot-passengers.

Leo told Lucille of the popular festivals at Rome, especially of the
Carnival that extends over several days, which consists of daily
processions in the Corso, accompanied by the throwing of bouquets and
comfits; the whole concluding with a horse race from the Piazza del
Popolo to Piazza di Venezia, upwards of a mile. On the last, or the
Moccoli evening, tapers are lighted immediately after sunset. Balconies
most suitable for observing these animated scenes are expensive, but
always in great demand, especially by tourists.

Colonel Harris took his family and Leo to an excellent hotel on the
Piazza de Popolo. The weather being uncomfortably warm, it was decided
to spend only a few days in the city, and go as soon as possible to the
country. Leo was very familiar with Rome, ancient and modern, and he
felt that weeks were absolutely necessary to study and comprehend the
grandeur of a city that for so many centuries had been mistress of the
world. He agreed with Niebuhr, "As the streams lose themselves in the
mightier ocean, so the history of the people once distributed along the
Mediterranean shores is absorbed in that of the mighty mistress of the
world."

Leo back again in Rome was in an ecstasy of joy. Here Greece had laid at
the feet of Rome her conqueror, the accumulated art treasures of ages.
Here Leo could have keenest delight, where he moved among the noblest
examples of antique sculpture, which filled the galleries and chambers of
the Vatican and Capitol. Most of the night he lay awake, planning how he
could in so short a time exhibit to his American friends Rome and her
wealth of art. At breakfast he said, "A whole day is needed to inspect
the Forum Romanum, a day each, for the Capitoline Hill, the Appian Way,
and many other historic localities in this seven-hilled city."

Leo, acting as guide, took his party to the Pincian Hill near the
northern wall, a fashionable resort with fine boulevards and frequent
band music. From the summit, he pointed out the yellow Tiber, which winds
for seventeen miles to the sea. The larger part of modern Rome lies on
the left bank of the Tiber, and covers three historic hills. Towering
above the tops of the buildings are the domes and spires of nea