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appearing to be impaired. He came from Waterford in Ireland, and had been
vice-consul at this port ever since the year 1709.
We were informed that a slight shock of an earthquake had been felt here
in the month of February preceding, but was unattended with any eruption
from the Peak, which had not alarmed the island since the year 1703, when
it destroyed the port of Guarrachica.
When the weather was very hot at Santa Cruz, the better sort of the
inhabitants chose cooler residences higher up in the mountains, and these
they could establish in whatever degree of temperature they chose; for in
proportion as they ascended the air became cooler, the famous Peak being
(though a volcano) clad in perpetual snow at its summit. We understood
that the rain fell very heavy at certain seasons; and, on the sides of
the hills which surrounded the town, ridges or low walls of stone were
constructed at short distances, with intervals in them, to break the
force of the water, which otherwise, descending in torrents, would sweep
away every thing before it. Around Santa Cruz, indeed, there appeared but
little vegetation for which to be apprehensive, nor did the prospect
brighten till we came within view of the town named Laguna, an inland
settlement, and once the capital of the island.
For this place a party of us set forward on the 8th, mounted, according
to the custom of the country, upon mules or asses. Our route lay over
hills and mountains of rock continually ascending, until within a short
distance of the town, at which we arrived in between two and three hours
from our leaving Santa Cruz. The road over which we passed was wide, but
for the greatest part of it we travelled over loose stones that bore all
the appearance of cinders; in some places resembling a regular pavement,
and in others our beasts were compelled to scramble as well as they could
over the hard solid rock. We found that Laguna, which was somewhat better
than three English miles distant from Santa Cruz, had formerly been a
populous city; the streets were spacious, and laid out at right angles
with each other.
Here were two monasteries and as many convents. The monastery of St
Augustine we visited; and the good fathers of it with great civility
conducted us to their chapel, though it was preparing for the celebration
of some religious ceremony. We found the altar-piece, on which was
commonly displayed all their finery and taste, neat, light, and elegant.
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