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they came on shore to the town, in which they were free to pass wherever
they desired. A conduct so opposite to that in general observed to
foreigners in this port could by us be attributed only to the great
esteem in which Captain Phillip was held here by all ranks of people
during the time of his commanding a ship in the Portuguese service; for
on being informed of the employment he now held, the viceroy's guard was
directed to pay him the same honours during his stay here, that were paid
to himself as the representative of the crown of Portugal.
The palace of the viceroy stood in the Royal Square, of which, together
with the public prison, the mint, and the opera-house, it formed the
right wing. Of these buildings the opera-house alone was shut up; and we
were informed, that the gloom which was thrown over the court and kingdom
of Portugal by the death of the late king, had extended in full force to
the colonies also; all private and public amusements being since that
time discouraged as much as possible, the viceroy himself setting the
example. Once a week, indeed, his excellency had a music-meeting at the
palace for the entertainment of himself and a few select friends; but
nothing more.
The town of St. Sebastian (or, as it is more commonly named, the town of
Rio de Janeiro, which was in fact the name of the river forming the bay,
on the western side of which was built the town) is large, and was
originally designed to have had an elevated and airy situation, but was,
unfortunately for the inhabitants, erected on low ground along the shore,
and in a recess almost wholly out of the reach of the refreshing
seabreeze, which was observed to be pretty regular in its visitations.
The inhabitants, nevertheless, deemed the air salubrious; and we were
informed that epidemic distempers were rare among them. In their streets,
however, were frequently seen objects of wretchedness and misery,
crawling about with most painful and disgusting swellings in their legs
and privities. The hospital, which had formerly been a Jesuit's convent,
stood near the summit of the hill, in an open situation, at the back of
the town. From the great estimation in which English surgeons were held
here, it would seem that the town is not too well provided in that
respect. Senor Ildefonse, the principal in the place had studied in
England, where he went under the course of surgical education called
walking the hospitals, and might by his practic
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