ights out by 9.30.
Lights in bedrooms to be extinguished same hour. This rule would mean,
Early to bed, and early to rise, and the "_baigneurs_" would receive
double the benefit they derive from these places, as now constituted.
Life in the open air should be the rule; plenty of exercise, riding and
walking, and regular hours for everything for three weeks. The
_baigneurs_ to choose their own hours, and be kept to them strictly.

* * * * *

But I have personally no sympathy with the _baigneurs_ who find such a
water-cure place as Royat dull. What do they want? If they cannot get on
without a sort of continuation of the London Season, let them stay away
altogether. Don't let them come and make night hideous with balls,
suppers, dances, and won't-go-home-till-morning parties.

* * * * *

The above are my suggestions for the improvement of Royat; and now I go
on to La Bourboule, and Mont Dore. By the way, the waters at these
places are all supplied, as I am credibly informed, from the same
source; but the waters flowing towards La Bourboule and Mont Dore
traverse certain _couches_ on their way, and come out arsenical. It is
strong drinking at La Bourboule and Mont Dore.

* * * * *

One Joanne Guide introduces you to another Joanne Guide, or a history,
you can't help yourself. The Joanne Guides are so united a family, that
as soon as any member of it establishes itself on a friendly footing
with you, your hand is always in your pocket while you are travelling on
that _Guide Joanne's_ account. An insidious tribe: and they make
themselves absolutely essential to the traveller's existence and
comfort.

* * * * *

Each _Guide Joanne_ tells you about his own country all that is
requisite for you to know, and just so much more as inspires you with a
thirst for further information. Say for example you see an old Chateau.
Let us say _Le Chateau de Jean_. You want to know everything about it.
Good. You inquire of the Guide Joanne which professes to show you all
over France, and which does it, mind you, in what would be an exhaustive
style if it was not written with such an evident eye to the bookselling
business. For example suppose you are looking for information about the
well-known ancient Chateau de Jean, here is a specimen of what Joanne
would say on the subject:--

"_Sur la rive g. (V. ci-desso