tions--Country Carts--Plain of Duvno--Mahmoud
Effendi--Old Tombs--Duvno--Fortress--Bosnian
Frontier--Vidosa--Parish Priest--National Music--Livno--
Franciscan Convent--Priestly Incivility--Illness--Quack
Medicines--Hungarian Doctor--Military Ambulance--Bosna
Serai--Osman Pacha--Popularity--Roads and Bridges--Mussulman
Rising in Turkish Croatia--Energy of Osman Pacha 227--242

CHAPTER XVII.

Svornik--Banialuka--New Road--Sport--Hot Springs--Ekshesoo--
Mineral Waters--Celebrated Springs--Goitre--The Bosna--Trout
Fishing--Tzenitza--Zaptiehs--Maglai--Khans--Frozen
Roads--Brod--The Save--Austrian Sentry--Steamer on the
Save--Gradiska--Cenovatz--La lingua di tre Regni--Culpa
River--Sissek--Croatian Hotel--Carlstadt Silk--Railway to
Trieste--Moravian Iron--Concentration of Austrian
Troops--Probable Policy--Watermills--Semlin--Belgrade 243--258

SERVIA:

Its Social, Political, and Financial Condition 261--285

CONCLUSION 286

APPENDIX 287--288

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

A MOONLIGHT BIVOUAC _Frontispiece._

OFFICIAL SEAL OF OMER PACHA _On Title-page._

SIGNATURE OF AUTHOR IN TURKISH CHARACTERS _page_ vi

MAP OF MONTENEGRO _To face page_ 1

MAP OF SLAVONIC PROVINCES OF EUROPEAN TURKEY " 288

[Illustration: Map of Montenegro.]

HERZEGOVINA.

CHAPTER I.

Object of Travels--Start--Mad Woman--Italian
Patriot--Zara--Sebenico--Falls of Kerka--Dalmatian Boatmen--French
Policy and Austrian Prospects--Spalatro--Palace of
Diocletian--Lissa--Naval Action--Gravosa--Ragusa--Dalmatian
Hotel--Change of Plans.

_'Omer Pacha will proceed with the army of Roumelia to quell the
disturbance in Herzegovina.'_ Such, I believe, was the announcement
which confirmed me in the idea of visiting the Slavonic provinces of
European Turkey. Had any doubts existed in my mind of the importance
attached by the Ottoman government to the pacification of these remote
districts, the recall to favour of Omer Pacha, and the despatch of so
large a force under his command, would have sufficed to remove them. As
it was, the mere desire to keep myself _au courant_ of the events of the
day, together with the inte