,
however, I may observe, is very superior, both in accuracy and
minuteness of detail, to any other survey which has as yet appeared.

While awaiting the departure of the Generalissimo for the seat of war,
to which he had kindly invited me to accompany him, I employed myself in
wandering about those crooked byways, and studying the many phases of
Turco-European humanity. That my impressions of the town were very
favourable, I am not prepared to state; but I believe that in point of
cleanliness it is superior to many. It is situated on both banks of the
Narenta, in a gorge which opens out into two small plains, at its N. and
S. extremities. The eastern and larger part is built on an acclivity,
and contains the bazaar, government offices, and the houses of the
traders and the richer inhabitants. The western part is occupied by the
poorer classes, who are for the most part Catholics, and are employed in
agricultural pursuits. The gardens, which supply the town with
vegetables, are upon this side, and the soil is more fruitful, though
marshy and feverish. On the eastern side it is healthy, sandy, and dry.
The dwelling-houses are generally small and comfortless, indifferently
built, and roofed with stone. As in India, they are always surrounded
with a compound--for it cannot be called garden--which gives the town a
rambling and extended appearance.

The shops are small and ill-supplied, and the streets narrow and
tortuous, except the two main ones, which are tolerably broad, and run
parallel to each other in a nearly straight course N. and S. They have
raised footpaths, roughly constructed, and swarming with animal life, as
is to be expected in the luxurious East. There are no fewer than thirty
mosques in the town, whose minarets give it a beautiful and picturesque
appearance, albeit that the buildings themselves are imperfect, and
ungainly in architectural detail. The Mussulmans have a school in the
town, where Turkish and Slavish are taught. Girls are, however, debarred
this advantage, and indeed no institution of any kind exists throughout
the province for their training or instruction. The result is that the
female population is, if possible, in a lower state of degradation than
the male. The religious and secular education of the Christians is as
little considered as that of the Mussulmans. Thus the only place of
worship which the Greeks possess is a small chapel on the outskirts, to
which is attached a school for boys