entations which these mixtures raise in our blood, the divisions,
heat and animosities, that reign among us; and in particular, asserted
most of the modern enthusiasms and agitations to be nothing else but the
effects of adulterated port.

The counsel for the brewers had a face so extremely inflamed and
illuminated with carbuncles, that I did not wonder to see him an
advocate for these sophistications. His rhetoric was likewise such as I
should have expected from the common draught, which I found he often
drank to a great excess. Indeed, I was so surprised at his figure and
parts, that I ordered him to give me a taste of his usual liquor; which
I had no sooner drunk, but I found a pimple rising in my forehead; and
felt such a sensible decay in my understanding, that I would not proceed
in the trial till the fume of it was entirely dissipated.

This notable advocate had little to say in the defence of his clients,
but that they were under a necessity of making claret if they would keep
open their doors, it being the nature of mankind to love everything that
is prohibited. He further pretended to reason, that it might be as
profitable to the nation to make French wine as French hats; and
concluded with the great advantage that this had already brought to
part of the kingdom. Upon which he informed the court, that the lands in
Hertfordshire were raised two years' purchase since the beginning of the
war.

When I had sent out my summons to these people, I gave at the same time
orders to each of them to bring the several ingredients he made use of
in distinct phials, which they had done accordingly, and ranged them
into two rows on each side of the court. The workmen were drawn up in
ranks behind them. The merchant informed me, that in one row of phials
were the several colours they dealt in, and in the other the tastes. He
then showed me on the right hand one who went by the name of Tom
Tintoret, who (as he told me) was the greatest master in his colouring
of any vintner in London.[77] To give me a proof of his art, he took a
glass of fair water; and by the infusion of three drops out of one of
his phials, converted it into a most beautiful pale burgundy. Two more
of the same kind heightened it into a perfect languedoc: from thence it
passed into a florid hermitage: and after having gone through two or
three other changes, by the addition of a single drop, ended in a very
deep pontack.[78] This ingenious virtuoso seeing me