by four enormous pillars of grey granite, polished by age. I
was desirous to have measured them, but the priest or servitor, who
accompanied us, refused permission. From the ceiling of the aisles, and
around the dome, hung innumerable lamps of different sizes; an
octangular frame of iron, suspended under the dome, also supported
[Sidenote: SERASKIER'S TOWER.] an immense quantity about ten feet from
the floor. The aisles were filled with many little recesses, in which
were placed books on stands; and one of them was occupied by a Turkish
priest, who chanted some verses from one of these open volumes. Neither
ornaments nor pictures decorate the interior, all being plain and
simple, except that portion nearest Mecca, where an enormous wax candle
is placed on each side of a little niche in the wall. There is something
extremely impressive in the unadorned simplicity, vast extent, and
sombre aspect of this mosque, which is the only religious edifice in
Constantinople, that can be seen by a Christian without a firman; a
donation to the priest of thirty-five piastres being sufficient to admit
a large party. We now proceeded to the Seraskier's tower, situated in a
large court by the side of the palace of the Seraskier Pasha. In the
upper chamber a party of men are constantly stationed to watch for
fires, and, I believe also, to give notice of any unusual assembling of
the people. On the appearance of a fire, they sound the alarm by beating
gongs, and by despatching messengers to various parts of the city. From
the windows of this apartment, is a most perfect bird's eye view of the
whole capital and its vicinity. In the whole course of my travels, I
can recall but one prospect, whose exquisite loveliness affords a
similar combination of all the ingredients necessary to a perfect
landscape, and which I, in some degree, prefer, as presenting even a
still greater variety of beautiful objects,--I mean the view of Naples
from the hermitage on Vesuvius.

[Illustration: Etched by G. C. from a Sketch by the Author

The Burnt Pillar.

Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]

[Sidenote: BURNT PILLAR.] A short walk brought us to the Tchernberle
Tasch, or burnt pillar, built of red porphyry, which has been cracked
and splintered by the numerous fires that have taken place around it;
and, to prevent its falling to pieces, it has been enclosed within a
sort of iron cage. It is ninety feet in height, and thirty in
circumference at the bas