ses in the Armenian quarter, where an
improvisatore exhibits his talents every holyday. Immense crowds of
respectable Turks assemble there to listen to the narrations of this
accomplished story-teller; and it is even said that the Grand Signior
himself is often present as an auditor in disguise. In all the
coffee-houses there were concerts of vocal and instrumental music; the
former consisting of songs or chants performed by a number of voices
together, or else one man sang a single verse, to which all the others
responded by way of chorus. Occasionally they varied their performances
by singing alternate verses of the same song. We sat in the open air, on
a long pier of wood built out into the sea, where there were hundreds
besides, perched upon low stools, smoking, or eating delicious ices and
mahalabe, and laughing and talking with more vivacity than I could have
expected in beings generally so taciturn, and so absorbed in the
contemplation of their own importance. At last, a man came to the door
of the largest coffee-room and clapped his hands, when the Turks
immediately moved into this apartment, in which seats were arranged in a
semicircular form one above the other, as in a theatre. A portion of the
floor, in front of the benches, was occupied by low stools, probably
reserved for visitors of distinction; and close to the wall was a
rostrum and a large easy arm-chair, on one side of which stood a little
desk.

[Sidenote: MATTHEWS AT CONSTANTINOPLE.] Our Oriental friends behaved
with much politeness: for, perceiving from our European costume that we
were strangers, they offered us places in front of the stage; and after
a few minutes' delay a man entered, and was handed up to the platform
and chair amidst a buzz of universal applause. In his hand he carried a
small stick, and in gait, physiognomy, and manner bore a singular
resemblance to our English Matthews. He was dressed in a frock coat, now
so generally worn in Constantinople, and wore, on one of his fingers, a
most superb brilliant ring, which, it is said, was presented to him by
the Sultan, as a mark of his especial approbation. A profound silence
prevailed among the company the moment he made his appearance; every one
seeming desirous to be amused, and most anxious to catch every word that
fell from his lips. [Sidenote: ORIENTAL JOHN TROT.] No story-teller of
Stamboul had ever enjoyed so much fame and popularity as this Turkish
Matthews, who, rising from his