cheese in cut, the spices, the cruets, the apples and pears, in a
perfect chandler's shop--in company with what a friend of ours would
call a hold gent, who had been so horribly wet through over night that
his condition frightened the authorities; a cat; and the steward, who
dozed in an arm-chair, and all-night-long fell head foremost, once every
five minutes, on Egg, who slept on the counter or dresser. Last night, I
had the steward's own cabin, opening on deck, all to myself. It had been
previously occupied by some desolate lady who went ashore at Civita
Vecchia. There was little or no sea, thank Heaven, all the trip; but
the rain was heavier than any I have ever seen, and the lightning very
constant and vivid. We were, with the crew, some 200 people--provided
with boats, at the utmost stretch, for one hundred perhaps. I could not
help thinking what would happen if we met with any accident: the crew
being chiefly Maltese, and evidently fellows who would cut off alone in
the largest boat, on the least alarm; the speed very high; and the
running, thro' all the narrow rocky channels. Thank God, however, here
we are."

A whimsical postscript closed the amusing narrative. "We towed from
Civita Vecchia the entire Greek navy, I believe; consisting of a little
brig of war with no guns, fitted as a steamer, but disabled by having
burnt the bottoms of her boilers out, in her first run. She was just big
enough to carry the captain and a crew of six or so: but the captain was
so covered with buttons and gold that there never would have been room
for him on board to put those valuables away, if he hadn't worn
them--which he consequently did, all night. Whenever anything was wanted
to be done, as slackening the tow-rope or anything of that sort, our
officers roared at this miserable potentate, in violent English, through
a speaking trumpet; of which he couldn't have understood a word in the
most favourable circumstances. So he did all the wrong things first, and
the right thing always last. The absence of any knowledge of anything
but English on the part of the officers and stewards was most
ridiculous. I met an Italian gentleman on the cabin steps yesterday
morning, vainly endeavouring to explain that he wanted a cup of tea for
his sick wife. And when we were coming out of the harbour at Genoa, and
it was necessary to order away that boat of music you remember, the
chief officer (called 'aft' for the purpose, as 'knowing somethin