er of the many inclosed gardens
in the vicinity of the city during the Russian advance, as, if he
had, and firmly contested each yard of soil, I much doubt whether
the Tsar's troops could have ever entered the city.
It is difficult to estimate the population of an Oriental city
by simply riding round its walls; so many houses are uninhabited,
and others again are densely packed with inhabitants. However, I
should say, as a mere guess, that there are about 25,000 human
beings within the walls of Khiva. The streets are broad and clean,
while the houses belonging to the richer inhabitants are built of
highly polished bricks and coloured tiles, which lend a cheerful
aspect to the otherwise somewhat sombre colour of the surroundings.
There are nine schools: the largest, which contains 130 pupils,
was built by the father of the present Khan. These buildings are
all constructed with high, coloured domes, and are ornamented with
frescoes and arabesque work, the bright aspect of the cupolas first
attracting the stranger's attention on his nearing the city.
Presently we rode through a bazaar similar to the one at Oogentch,
thin rafters and straw uniting the tops of the houses in the street,
and forming a sort of roof to protect the stall-keepers and their
customers from the rays of a summer sun. We were followed by crowds
of people; and as some of the more inquisitive approached too closely,
the Khivans who accompanied me, raising their whips in the air,
freely belaboured the shoulders of the multitude, thus securing
a little space. After riding through a great number of streets,
and taking the most circuitous course--probably in order to duly
impress me with an idea of the importance of the town--we arrived
before my companion's house. Several servants ran forward and took
hold of the horses. The Khivan dismounted, and, bowing obsequiously,
led the way through a high door-way constructed of solid timber.
We next entered a square open court, with carved stone pillars
supporting a balcony which looked down upon a marble fountain, or
basin, the general appearance of the court being that of a _patio_
in some nobleman's house in Cordova or Seville. A door of a similar
construction to the one already described, though somewhat lower,
gave access to a long, narrow room, a raised dais at each end being
covered with handsome rugs. There were no windows, glass being a
luxury which has only recently found its way to the capital; but
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