tive bazaars, and the marketplace and
Russian bazaar. An extensive view of the city and an interesting
sight is obtained from the eminence crowned by the old fortress
which immediately overlooks the Asiatic quarter and bazaars, whence
rise the confused sounds of human cries and the din from the iron,
brass, and copper-workers. As is the custom elsewhere in the East,
those of one trade congregate together, apart from the other trades,
and so are passed a succession of silversmiths in their stalls,
of furriers, armourers, or eating and wine-shops, the wine of the
country being kept in buffalo, goat, or sheep-skins laid on their
back, and presenting the disagreeable appearance of carcases swollen
after lengthened immersion in water. The Georgians are merry folk,
rarely allowing themselves to be depressed by the troubles of life.
They love wine and music, and ever seek to drive away dull care
by indulging in their favourite Kakhety--two bottles being the
usual allowance to a man's dinner, an allowance, however, greatly
exceeded when, of an evening, friends meet together to join in
the national dance, called the Lezghinka.

The Cathedral of Zion was formerly the church of the Patriarch of
Georgia. It dates from the Fifth Century, and encloses that most
precious relic, with which the nation was converted to Christianity
in the Fourth Century--nothing less than a cross of vine stems bound
with the hair of St. Nina, the patron saint, who first preached the
truth! The patriarchate has long been suppressed, and is replaced
by a Russian Exarch, so that the Georgian Church may be considered
in all respects identical with that of Russia. The palace of the
kings has entirely disappeared, for not a vestige remains. George
XIII. signed his renunciation of the crown in favour of the Emperor
Paul in 1800, and died shortly afterwards amid the execrations of
his subjects, for having ignominiously betrayed them. Many of his
descendants are in the service of Russia, and are the representatives
of one of the most ancient monarchies of the world--for the Bagrations
first rose to power in 587; and if allowance be made for interregnums
it will be found that their reign extended over 1092 years, during
the twelve centuries that elapsed from their earliest election.

As Georgia is the land of wine and song, so is Armenia essentially
the land of legend and tradition, for which must be held in great
part responsible the magnificent mountain that e