held in the left hand. Illustrations show how this is
done.

The only disadvantage in using a plane is that one must exchange it for
a knife to make the receiving cut in the stock before inserting the
graft. This necessitates exposing the graft to the air for a longer time
than does using a single instrument.

Spring budding is done during the same period as grafting. Bud wood is
usually much larger in diameter than scionwood, for it is easier to
remove buds from big branches than from wood only one-quarter inch in
diameter. When budding is to be done, take along only enough wood for
half a day's work, leaving the rest safely stored. A piece of wood
having a bud is prepared as shown in the illustrations "A" and "B" (next
page). A T-shaped slot is made in the stock to receive the bud, a
process called "shield budding." This is tied in place with either
string, raffia or gummed tape, as shown in "C" and "D" (next page). The
bud must be free to grow, and although it may be covered completely with
wax, no part of the binding material should be close to it. Since it is
not necessary to cut off all the tree in budding, enough of it may
remain above the bud to brace the shoot that develops. Later, it may be
necessary to cut back the tree to the bud so that a callus will form and
cause the wound to heal properly.

[Illustration: Drwg by Wm. Kuehn _Shield Budding._]

Best results are obtained when a graft union is coated with melted
beeswax. Another and cheaper wax may be made by combining four parts of
rosin, one part of beeswax and one-sixteenth part of raw linseed oil. To
this is sometimes added a little lampblack to color the mixture so that
it can be seen on the graft. Again, care must be taken to prevent
injuring the cells with wax that is too hot.

I have used many kinds of tying materials, but the one which gives me
best results is gummed tape, which preparation I describe in another
chapter. By wrapping it in spirals around a graft union, I have a
material which holds the graft in place and at the same time excludes
air. The rubber also seems to encourage the formation of that tissue
which unites the stock and scion. In addition to tape, melted wax should
be brushed into those crevices and cracks which always occur in making a
graft.

It is usually advisable, although not necessary, to shade new grafts. To
do this, cover them with light-colored or white paper sacks. Never use
glassine alone for it causes the gra