France. The habitual want of veracity of the
Portuguese character is naturally emphasised in the newspapers, and no
one in his senses would believe any statement made in them.

A sure sign of the decadence of intellectual life, as well as of
commercial activity, is to be found in the postal service, with its
antiquated methods and imperfect arrangements. It is administered in a
happy-go-lucky manner, which amuses at the same time that it annoys.
Truly, with the post-office, it is well constantly to repeat to one's
self the phrase: "Patience! all will be well to-morrow!" Probably it
won't be well; but none but a foolish Englishman or Frenchman or German
will bother about such a little matter.

A kindly, brave, docile, dishonest, patient, and courteous people, who,
to quote Napier "retain a sense of injury or insult with incredible
tenacity;" and a due observance of their customs and proper politeness
are so readily met, and friendly advances are so freely proffered, that
a sojourn amongst them is pleasant enough. I have wondered that the
tourist has not found his way more into this smiling land, though, no
doubt, his absence is a matter of congratulation to the traveller in
these regions. The country has many beauties, the people and their
costumes are picturesque, and the cost of living--even allowing for a
considerable percentage of cheating--is not excessive. There is, I
suppose, a want of the ordinary attractions for the pure tourist or
globe-trotter. There are churches, monuments, and objects of interest in
goodly numbers, and there is beautiful scenery in great variety; but the
true attraction to a thoughtful visitor lies in the contemplation of the
people themselves.

The Portuguese, taken as a whole, are not a good-looking race. The
women, who, as a rule, are very pretty as little girls, lose their good
looks as they grow up, and are disappointing when compared with the
Spaniards. Sometimes one comes across fish- or market-women of
considerable comeliness, which, when conjoined to the graceful figure
and poise induced by the habitual carriage of heavy weights on the head
and the absence of shoes, makes a striking picture. The costume is
attractive, and the wealth of golden ear-rings, charms, chains, and such
like, in which these women invest their savings, does not somehow seem
anomalous or incongruous, though shown on a background of dirty and
ragged clothing.

One unfortunate peculiarity that cannot help b