if genuine, they are antiquated, and that they leave
many gaps between the various periods of service which can only be
filled up by conjecture. _Criadas_ are not, as a rule, of immaculate
virtue, and give some trouble by their desire to go to _festas_ and to
servants' balls. The male servants are, as a rule, better than the
_criadas_. Servants are somewhat roughly treated, and are ordered about
as if they were dogs. It is always said that they do not understand or
appreciate milder or more civil treatment, and are inclined to despise a
master or mistress who uses the Portuguese equivalent to "please," or
who acknowledges a service with thanks. I am inclined to doubt this,
both from my personal observation and from a casual remark made to me by
the landlady of a hotel at Cintra, that her waiters and servants much
preferred English to native visitors, because of the greater politeness
and consideration shown to them by the former. Of course, as in all
other countries, servants are described as one of the greatest plagues
in life; but this must be taken for what it is worth. And what would the
ladies do without such a subject to grumble about?

Portugal is a poor country, despite its natural resources. The wealthy
people are few, and consist mainly of returned Brazilians. It cannot be
said, either, that the classes in the enjoyment of a competence
constitute a fair average of the community. But the poor are very
abundant. Wages are terribly low, even a foreman in an engineering shop
getting only a milrei a day, averaging _3s. 2d._ in English money. On
the other hand, it must be remembered that in such a climate the "living
wage" is necessarily lower than in England. Many necessities in England
are superfluities or even inconveniences under sunnier skies. The
people, too, are very frugal, and even in towns, though rents be high,
all other necessaries are moderate in price. The standard of life is not
high, and the people are contented with a style of living which would be
indignantly rejected by English labourers.

The artisans are not good workmen, but plod on fairly well, and, with
the exception of _festas_, require few holidays. They prefer to work on
Sundays, and grumble at their English employers, who generally split the
difference, by closing their shops for half a day. They look upon this
as a grievance, however much they may be assured that it makes no
difference in their wages.

[Illustration: A COUNTRY CABIN I