useful lesson to many in the civilized societies in which he
learnt to be what he now is, since he does not fear to change a line of
conduct when its error is palpable.
The time at length arrived when we were compelled to bid adieu to this
extraordinary man, whose future career is a matter of such vast
importance to the country he rules with almost absolute power. Expressing
the hope that the day might yet come when I should meet him in my own
country, I took leave of my kind-hearted but perilously-situated
entertainer as I would of a friend in a galloping consumption.
During my whole stay in Nepaul the weather had been unusually foggy, and
the snowy range only displayed its wonders now and then. On the day
following the review the sky was unclouded; I therefore resolved to
ascend the Sheopoori, a mountain which rises to a height of 2000 feet
above the valley, and from which it was said a most magnificent view of
the snowy range is obtained. The ascent commenced at a distance of five
miles from the Residency, and was very fatiguing from the total absence
of any path, the steepness of some part of it, and the thick jungle
through which we had to push our way. It occupied two hours' stiff
climbing for one in pretty good mountain condition, but no fatigue seems
too great if it is rewarded by a good view; and there is no prospect so
cheering to the mountain traveller as that of an unclouded sky, with the
summit of the hill he is ascending in clear relief against it.
At last we reached the shoulder, from whence I had a peep that made me
long for more, but, determined not to spoil the effect, I pushed
resolutely on after my guide through a low scrubby jungle, along a barely
perceptible woodcutter's path, until the crisp snow crunching beneath our
feet betokened our great elevation. I was glad to halt for a moment and
cool my mouth with the snow, a luxury I had not experienced for years.
A few yards more and we gained the summit; a sort of shed, the residence
of some departed holy man, marked the highest point, upwards of 6000 feet
above the sea.
A keen sharp wind whistled about the ruin as I jumped on to a half broken-
down wall in order to look over the low bushes which surrounded me. From
this position a panorama, in every respect as magnificent as it was
wonderful, stretched itself, if I may so speak, as well above as below
me. Northward, and not thirty miles distant, the Himalayas reared their
heaven-pier
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