0 inhabitants, is
enclosed by a wall, beyond which the country stretches away in appearance
much like the Campagna at Rome. It is covered with ruins, which, with a
few modern tombs scattered amongst prostrate slabs, give it a picturesque
aspect. Through this Campagna we drove one day to see the Coutub. We
passed the handsome tomb of Suftur Jung, and the mausoleums of many other
worthies, the splendour of whose present resting-places betokened their
former greatness. The Coutub is a tall column that is said to have been
originally intended for a minaret, though the Hindoos claim it as having
been erected before the Mahomedan invasion; however that may be, it is a
singularly beautiful monument, and rises to a height of 260 feet. It was
worth toiling up its narrow circular staircase to enjoy the view which
the summit afforded of the country I had just traversed: the Jumma Musjid
at Delhi was discernible in the distance, while immediately below lay the
large camp of the Commander-in-Chief, the tents of which were pitched
with great regularity, and looked dazzling white in the bright sun. After
descending the column, I wandered awhile amidst the ruins at its foot,
some of which looked very much as if they were of _Jain_ origin,--and
then returned to a desirable tomb, which the hospitable commissioner has
converted into a delightful retreat from the noisy city.

I left Delhi with no little regret after an agreeable sojourn of a week,
and rolled rapidly over the excellent road to Agra, so smooth that it was
_irresistible_ to the laziest horse, and 130 miles were easily
accomplished in eighteen hours including stoppages.

Of Agra the passing traveller can say little, because its wonders are so
inexhaustible and so interesting. The magnificent tomb at Secundra of
that greatest of Mahomedan princes, Ackbar, must be left to the
description already given by travellers of more leisure; so must the fort
and the white marble palace which it contains, where dwelt the powerful
Aurungzebe when he made Agra his capital. It was an endless source of
interest to me to wander through the paved courts and under the marble
columns of that glistening palace,--to look down upon the river, winding
at the base of the lofty walls,--to descend into dark vaults in which
were fountains and baths with water ever cool,--to creep yet lower, with
a dim flickering light, into the execution chamber, and stand under the
beam which had sustained the fa