ng stream which descended from the glaciers, and now nearly
alongside it. The morning was cold and somewhat foggy, for the autumn
had made great strides latterly. Sometimes we went through forests of
pine, or rather yew trees, though they looked like pine; and I remember
that now and again we passed a little wayside shrine, wherein there would
be a statue of great beauty, representing some figure, male or female, in
the very heyday of youth, strength, and beauty, or of the most dignified
maturity and old age. My hosts always bowed their heads as they passed
one of these shrines, and it shocked me to see statues that had no
apparent object, beyond the chronicling of some unusual individual
excellence or beauty, receive so serious a homage. However, I showed no
sign of wonder or disapproval; for I remembered that to be all things to
all men was one of the injunctions of the Gentile Apostle, which for the
present I should do well to heed. Shortly after passing one of these
chapels we came suddenly upon a village which started up out of the mist;
and I was alarmed lest I should be made an object of curiosity or
dislike. But it was not so. My guides spoke to many in passing, and
those spoken to showed much amazement. My guides, however, were well
known, and the natural politeness of the people prevented them from
putting me to any inconvenience; but they could not help eyeing me, nor I
them. I may as well say at once what my after-experience taught
me--namely, that with all their faults and extraordinary obliquity of
mental vision upon many subjects, they are the very best-bred people that
I ever fell in with.

The village was just like the one we had left, only rather larger. The
streets were narrow and unpaved, but very fairly clean. The vine grew
outside many of the houses; and there were some with sign-boards, on
which was painted a bottle and a glass, that made me feel much at home.
Even on this ledge of human society there was a stunted growth of
shoplets, which had taken root and vegetated somehow, though as in an air
mercantile of the bleakest. It was here as hitherto: all things were
generically the same as in Europe, the differences being of species only;
and I was amused at seeing in a window some bottles with barley-sugar and
sweetmeats for children, as at home; but the barley-sugar was in plates,
not in twisted sticks, and was coloured blue. Glass was plentiful in the
better houses.

Lastly, I shou