ld say that the people were of a physical beauty which was
simply amazing. I never saw anything in the least comparable to them.
The women were vigorous, and had a most majestic gait, their heads being
set upon their shoulders with a grace beyond all power of expression.
Each feature was finished, eyelids, eyelashes, and ears being almost
invariably perfect. Their colour was equal to that of the finest Italian
paintings; being of the clearest olive, and yet ruddy with a glow of
perfect health. Their expression was divine; and as they glanced at me
timidly but with parted lips in great bewilderment, I forgot all thoughts
of their conversion in feelings that were far more earthly. I was
dazzled as I saw one after the other, of whom I could only feel that each
was the loveliest I had ever seen. Even in middle age they were still
comely, and the old grey-haired women at their cottage doors had a
dignity, not to say majesty, of their own.

The men were as handsome as the women beautiful. I have always delighted
in and reverenced beauty; but I felt simply abashed in the presence of
such a splendid type--a compound of all that is best in Egyptian, Greek
and Italian. The children were infinite in number, and exceedingly
merry; I need hardly say that they came in for their full share of the
prevailing beauty. I expressed by signs my admiration and pleasure to my
guides, and they were greatly pleased. I should add that all seemed to
take a pride in their personal appearance, and that even the poorest (and
none seemed rich) were well kempt and tidy. I could fill many pages with
a description of their dress and the ornaments which they wore, and a
hundred details which struck me with all the force of novelty; but I must
not stay to do so.

When we had got past the village the fog rose, and revealed magnificent
views of the snowy mountains and their nearer abutments, while in front I
could now and again catch glimpses of the great plains which I had
surveyed on the preceding evening. The country was highly cultivated,
every ledge being planted with chestnuts, walnuts, and apple-trees from
which the apples were now gathering. Goats were abundant; also a kind of
small black cattle, in the marshes near the river, which was now fast
widening, and running between larger flats from which the hills receded
more and more. I saw a few sheep with rounded noses and enormous tails.
Dogs were there in plenty, and very English; but I