d fourpence, and we slept on the table
below, on deck, or not at all, as we best could.

Our real starting-point on tramp was Linz, whence we pursued our way
through Wells, Gmunden, Ebensee, and Ishl to Salzburg, in which beautiful
city we rested for a day and half. We steamed across lake Traun from
Gmunden, and paid a fare of twenty-five kreutzers, or fourpence. From
Salzburg we pushed on to Hallein, to visit the salt mines there, and
thence diverged still further from the beaten route for the sake of
seeing the water-fall of Golling--the stern terrors of the OEfen--and
dream away an hour upon the beautiful and romantic waters of Konigsee,
the King's Lake. We had crossed the frontier of Bavaria near Hallein,
and, having loitered so long among the delightful scenery of its
neighbourhood, we now hurried on towards Munich, through Reichenhall,
Fraunstein, Weisham, Rosenheim, Aibling, and Peiss. Thirsty and weary,
we overtook a timber waggon when within eight miles of the capital, and
made a bargain with the driver to carry us forward to our destination for
six kreutzers, about one penny, each; and upon the unhewn timber of the
springless log-waggon we rode into Munich. We had been already fourteen
days upon the road, ten of which had been spent on tramp, advancing at an
average rate of twenty-five miles a day. From Linz to Munich, by the
circuitous route we had taken, I reckon in round numbers at two hundred
and fifty miles. My share of the expenses amounted to thirty-six
florins, forty kreutzers, say one pound nine shillings in English money,
or an average outlay of two shillings a day. It may be added, that many
of our expenses were those of ordinary foot-tourists, rather than of
tramping workmen; that we had lived well although frugally; and that,
save in a goatherd's hut on the Schaf-berg, we had never slept out of
bed.

We spent five happy days in Munich: wandering among picture-galleries and
museums; visiting the royal palace in the capital, and the pleasure
retreat at Nymphenburg; and the churches, with their painted windows,
beautiful architecture, and radiant frescoes. We visited two theatres,
and roamed in the English garden, and among the wilder scenery of hills
in the environs. Munich is the real capital of modern art, and contains
more magnificent public buildings than any city of the same extent in the
world. Vulgar figures again: my expenses in Munich amounted to eight
guldens, forty kreutzers,