stration: _The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares_]

The missionary effort of England, America, and other countries has for
years been directed toward changing the condition of the masses, but the
law of caste is such that, to use a set phrase, if a man become a
Christian, he is ostracized, even by the members of his own family,
unless they too follow his example. He is also ostracized as regards any
business he may follow, and the sacrifice he is forced to undergo seems
almost too great for human endurance. Still, according to missionary
reports, this sacrifice is frequently made, which is equivalent to true
heroism. Naturally, the progress of proselyting is slower in India than
in any other country of the Orient, but it is the consensus of opinion
that a greater extension of hospitals in charge of so-termed
missionaries and a greater extension of schools for the young are the
leaven that will work satisfactory results in the future. Another
reassuring sign is the establishment of the Central Hindu College at
Benares by Mrs. A.B. Besant, the Theosophist. This is intended to
elevate the Hindu youth, combining religious and moral education with
mental and athletic development. We saw only the exterior of the
building.

Four miles from Benares, at the site of the old Benares, called Sarnath,
is a most interesting ancient monument known as the Tope of Sarnath. It
is the best preserved of any in Bengal. It was erected in Deer Park to
mark the spot sanctified by the presence of Buddha. It was explored in
1835 and found to be a stupa; but containing no relics, it was evidently
intended to indicate the spot where Buddha first assumed his mission as
a teacher. The tope consists of a stone basement ninety-three feet in
diameter and solidly built of stone. Above the stone is brickwork rising
to a height of one hundred and twenty feet from the plain. The lower
story has niches evidently intended for a figure of Buddha, and below
this is a band of sculptured ornaments of great beauty; it is thought
from the evidences of ornamentation that in date it corresponds to the
best period of Delhi. There is an interesting temple in the vicinity,
and there formerly was a large Buddhist monastery. One also finds acres
of mounds and debris indicating a large Buddhist foundation in the days
when Buddha reigned supreme.

We left Benares for Darjeeling the evening of December 27th, and the
prospect of a glimpse of mountain scenery