y of _Rosillein_; it is well fortified,
but the works are in a ruinous condition: the streets are narrow and
dirty, but the Governor's, and the botanic gardens are worthy of notice:
the climate is remarkably fine, and the air pure. The _Pyrenees_, which
are at least fifteen miles distant, appear to hang in a manner over the
town: to see so much snow, and feel so much sun, is very singular. Wood
is very scarce and dear in that town: I frequently saw mules and asses
loaded with rosemary and lavender bushes, to sell for firing. The
barbarous language of the common people of this province, is very
convenient, as they understand French, and can make themselves
understood thro' a great part of Spain: from which kingdom not a day
passes but mules and carriages arrive, except when the heavy rains or
snow obstruct the communication.--The mules and asses of Spain, and this
part of France, are not only very useful but valuable beasts: the only
way to get a valuable one of either sort from Spain, is, to fix upon the
beast, and promise a round sum to one of the religious mendicants to
smuggle it out of the kingdom, who covers the animal with bags, baskets,
and a variety of trumpery, as if he was going into France to collect
charity: and passes either by _not_ being suspected, or by being a
_Religieux_ if he is suspected.

As we took exactly the same route from _Perpignan_ to this town as we
went, except leaving _Cette_ a few leagues on our left; I shall say
nothing of our return, but that we relished our reception at the French
inns, and the good cheer we found there, infinitely more than as we
went: and that we were benighted for some hours before we got into
_Montpellier_, and caught in the most dreadful storm of rain, thunder
and lightning I ever was exposed to. I was obliged for two hours to hold
my horse's bridle on one side, as my man did on the other, and feel with
sticks for the margin of the road, as it was elevated very high above
the marshy lands, and if the heel had slipped over on either side, it
must have overset the chaise into the lowlands: besides which, the
roaring of the water-streams was so great, that I very often thought we
were upon the margin of some river or high bridge: nor was my suffering
quite over even after I got into the city: I could not find my former
_auberge_, nor meet with any body to direct me: and the water-spouts
which fell into the middle of those narrow streets almost deluged
us.--My poor ho