he rapid water at this town, which I had passed going into Spain, was
now lower than usual. Here too my horse, as well as his master, lived
truly _in clover_; and though our habitation was humble, a habitation at
the very foot of the _Pyrenees_ could not but be very beautiful; no part
of France is more so; it is indeed a beautiful and noble sight, to see
the hanging plantations of vines, olives, and mulberry-trees, warmed by
a hot sun on the sides of those mountains, the upper parts of which are
covered with a perpetual snow. But beautiful as all that part of the
country is, there was not a single gentleman's house in the environs.

After a compleat week's refreshment, we proceeded to _Perpignan_ to
spend our Christmas, where we found the _Chevalier de Maigny_ and his
Lady, who had given us the letter of recommendation to the French Consul
at _Barcelona_; who shewed us those marks of civility and politeness,
French officers in general shew to strangers. There we staid a
fortnight; and _Mons. de Maigny_ got me a considerable profit, in
changing my Spanish gold for French.

In this town, I found an unfortunate young Irishman; he had been there
three months, without a friend or a shilling in his pocket; and as he
was a man of education and good breeding, I could not so soon forget my
own situation at _Barcelona_, not to pity his: but what most induced me
to assist him a little, was, what he feared might have had a contrary
effect. When I asked him his name, he readily answered, "R--h; an
unfortunate name!" said he;--"but, as it is my name, I will _wear
it_."--He had a well-wisher in the town, a French watch-maker, to whom
he imparted the little kindness I had shewn him; and as it was not
enough to conduct him on foot to the north side of this kingdom, the
generous, but poor watch-maker, gave him as much as I had done, and he
sat off with a light heart, though a _thin pair of breeches_, for his
own country. He had been to visit a rich relation at Madrid; and, I
believe, did not meet with so cordial a reception there as he expected.

At this town I drank, at a private gentleman's house, part of a bottle
of the wine made at a little village hard by, called _Rios Alto_; the
most delicious wine I ever tasted: but as the spot produces but a small
quantity, that which is really of the growth is very scarce, as well as
dear: it has the strength of full port, with a flavour superior to
burgundy.

_Perpignan_ is the principal cit