, and is one of the old-fashioned
observances; a relic of the time when the planter was really looked
upon as the father of his people, and when a little sentiment and
mutual affection mingled with the purely business relations of
landlord and tenant.

I delighted my ryots by importing some of our own country recreations,
and setting the ploughmen to compete against each other. I stuck a
greasy bamboo firmly into the earth, putting a bag of copper coins at
the top. Many tried to climb it, but when they came to the grease they
came down 'by the run.' One fellow however filled his _kummerbund_
with sand, and after much exertion managed to secure the prize.
Wheeling the barrow blindfold also gave much amusement, and we made
some boys bend their foreheads down to a stick and run round till they
were giddy. Their ludicrous efforts then to jump over some water-pots,
and run to a thorny bush, raised tumultuous peals of laughter. The
poor boys generally smashed the pots, and ended by tumbling into the
thorns.

CHAPTER XVII.

The Koosee jungles.--Ferries.--Jungle roads.--The rhinoceros.--We go
to visit a neighbour.--We lose our way and get belated.--We fall into
a quicksand.--No ferry boat.--Camping out on the sand.--Two tigers
close by.--We light a fire.--The boat at last arrives.--Crossing the
stream.--Set fire to the boatman's hut.--Swim the horses.--They are
nearly drowned.--We again lose our way in the jungle.--The towing
path, and how boats are towed up the river.--We at last reach the
factory.--News of rhinoceros in the morning.--Off we start, but arrive
too late.--Death of the rhinoceros.--His dimensions.--Description.
--Habits.--Rhinoceros in Nepaul.--The old 'Major Capt[=a]n.'--Description
of Nepaulese scenery.--Immigration of Nepaulese.--Their fondness for
fish.--They eat it putrid.--Exclusion of Europeans from Nepaul.
--Resources of the country.--Must sooner or later be opened up.
--Influences at work to elevate the people.--Planters and factories
chief of these.--Character of the planter.--His claims to consideration
from government.

In the vast grass jungles that border the banks of the Koosee,
stretching in great plains without an undulation for miles on either
side, intersected by innumerable water-beds and dried up channels,
there is plenty of game of all sorts. It is an impetuous,
swiftly-flowing stream, dashing directly down from the mighty hills of
Nepaul. So swift is its current and so erratic