its course, that it
frequently bursts its banks, and careers through the jungle, forming a
new bed, and carrying away cattle and wild animals in its headlong
rush.

The _ghauts_ or ferries are constantly changing, and a long bamboo
with a bit of white rag affixed, shows where the boats and boatmen are
to be found. In many instances the track is a mere cattle path, and
hundreds of cross openings, leading into the tall jungle grass, are
apt to bewilder and mislead the traveller. During the dry season these
jungles are the resort of great herds of cattle and tame buffaloes,
which trample down the dry stalks, and force their way into the
innermost recesses of the wilderness of grass, which grows ten to
twelve feet high. If you once lose your path you may wander for miles,
until your weary horse is almost unable to stumble on. In such a case,
the best way is to take it coolly, and halloo till a herdsman or
thatch-cutter comes to your rescue. The knowledge of the jungles
displayed by these poor ignorant men is wonderful; they know every
gully and watercourse, every ford and quicksand, and they betray not
the slightest sign of fear, although they know that at any moment they
may come across a herd of wild buffalo, a savage rhinoceros, or even a
royal tiger.

The tracks of rhinoceros are often seen, but although I have
frequently had these pointed out to me when out tiger shooting, I only
saw two while I lived in that district.

The first occasion was after a night of discomfort such as I have
fortunately seldom experienced. I had been away at a neighbouring
factory in Purneah, some eighteen or twenty miles from my bungalow. My
companion had been my predecessor in the management, and was supposed
to be well acquainted with the country. We had gone over to one of the
outworks across the river, and I had received charge of the place from
him. It was a lonely solitary spot; the house was composed of grass
walls plastered with mud, and had not been used for some time. F.
proposed that we should ride over to see H., to whom he would
introduce me as he would be one of my nearest neighbours, and would
give us a comfortable dinner and bed, which there was no chance of our
procuring where we were.

We plunged at once into the mazy labyrinths of the jungle, and soon
emerged on the high sandy downs, stretching mile beyond mile along the
southern bank of the ever-changing river. Having lost our way, we got
to the factory after dark,